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Old 12-26-2004, 07:53 PM
WCWhitey WCWhitey is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 170
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ScreaminChief, I am with you. My impression of the whole topic is that it is a bolt on deal. A good mechanic like yourself with good tuning skills can probably gain plenty of HP without all the bolt-ons. I am not sure of 70Lemans's abilities but I assumed them to be average. I just did not see him rebuilding a QJ, or putting in ones own screw in studs, and maybe I am wrong, it just does not seem within his realm. If I am incorrect for assuming I apoligize. So if good money is going to be spent on bolt-on's knowing which will help and which are a waste of money is important. Break it down to basics 1) stock intake vs performer 120 dollar savings (no performance increase) 2) A holley that can be rebuilt by a novice vs a rebuilt QJ easy 150+ (very little if any increase), Screw in studs $80 (maybe good insurance, but no performance gain), valve springs $75 (only if he goes with bigger cam), PolyLocks $40 (ditto), if one sends a used HEI for recurve at least $75 not to mention new cap and coil $40(a $120 dollar new one comes with all the above). I am being conservative with some of my numbers but in my humble opinion it gets to be a case of while I am at it which turns the whole job from "Getting more power out of a 350" into I should have spent the money on a 400/455. My rough total is around $450 which is about the cost of a good set of headers and dual exhaust, give or take. A good exhaust is a solid 20+ HP over a poor, if it came down to true dual or X pipe and there was no money left so be it, as long as it flowed well. I do agree with you on the points system, as that is what I use and get alot of abuse for it, but I know it works and is easy for me to tune. I would rather have a cheap well tuned 300 HP motor than an expensive one capable of 400 HP that runs like crap. LOL, a good discussion, glad to see this 350 build. Not all cars are 12 second cars.

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