Let me try to simplify this as much as possible. Ideally, you want the engine to leave the starting line at or near peak torque RPM. So, if the dyno numbers say your torque peaks at say 3500rpm, you would want the converter to stall or slip just enough to allow the engine to reach about 3500rpm out of the hole with traction. AS far as slip down the track, ideally, the converter would slip 0% after launch. Unfortunatly, the design of the converter that allows the 3500rpm launch will create some slippage down the track. So how do you get a converter to stall off the line and lock as tight as possible down the track??? Simply open the wallet really wide and spend $650 to ?? for a quality, custom built converter hand picked and built for you using all your car info. My advise is to arm yourself with all your car info,(weight, tire diameter, gear, trans, just to name a few) and call someone like Kenny at PTC who knows Pontiacs. Let him decide what to build. BTW.. A while back, while I was waiting for my PTC converter to arrive, I installed a buddies Hughes converter that stalled about 3400 on his car. It was a 10" unit priced at about $275 a few years ago. It stalled 5000rpm on my car, but still managed a 10.45 pass with 10.25 being my best with the PTC. Question is, how long would it have held up? Anyone who knows me knows I am not an advocate of high dollar parts. I know some guys running real strong with carefully selected off the shelf converters. It really sucks when you miss it though. Good luck.
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1971 Base Firebird..505ci IA 2A Round port E-heads by Butler 348 cfm.. Comp street SR 266/ [email protected] Victor intake/Quick Fuel Q950. 1 7/8" Dougs headers..3" mandrel bent exhaust with Hooker Max Flow mufflers, T-350 well built with 10" 4000 stall nitrous Continental converter..3.73 posi . Caltracs and 10" slicks. Belt driven water pump, alternator, Pwr steering and brakes,Flex fan. 11:1compression, straight 93 octane pump fuel. 10.35 @ 129.88 with 1.45 60ft N/A at 3700lbs race weight.
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