I had a lengthy message but got a "not allowed to tag an HTML user code with reply" error message...makes me go hmmmm.
I was saying:
Goatman, Still sorry for you about your engine wear. I do not see it as an engine failure.
Please report back on the cause of the 7PSI oil pressure. An electric drill with screwdriver blade will drive the pump. Perhaps you lost the rear galley plug?..Please report on the cause of dramatic oil pressure loss.
Seems you can check #5 rod for roundness, repop that rodbearing, and strap clean the crank journal...not much runtime on that 'bad journal' so the damage is likely bearing material on top the journal. Did the #5 rod bearing spin ?????please report..
Please lower your standard on the CYL scuffing visual. The motor is still "breaking-in". The compression test only get better with time.
Sounds to me that you can be back up & running with little added money.
----------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------
Just finished the Bottom-end assembly on my USED YK428/103N 455crank/L2359.030TRW-TotalSeal-SDRods/4-bolt capped engine/reinspected oilpump.
Anybody from this board sitting next to me would see 2 455 cranks showing fine wear patterns, no cylinder scuffing, old rod bearings with coating in place, except the uppers from one motor show coating wear on the power stroke. Old Mains show debris scoreing on the lowers, but not bad, and definitely reuseable. Both Rear mains appear nearly new. Worst bearings were the 1,2,3 uppers on one motor. (I filed all the old bearing edges and ground oil feeds into the leading edges of the lower shells.) Old bearings will be part of 'best pickins' for the other shortblock...(damn I'm cheap).
New items: BOP rear seal, .010 Fm Main bearings(edges filed, Ground oil feeds into lower shells) .010 Fm Rod bearings (edges filed).
The factory bolts torqued beautifully. I could feel all the bolts stretch while reaching their settings of 120, 100, and 63ft-Lbs. I use SBC Mainbolts, SDrodnuts&bolts, and "M" balancer bolt.
Factory headbolts have hard washers for good measure....Grade 8 six slashes ya know...when you gots several hunderd engine bolts, there's a few good ones.
Turning torque: < 5ft-Lbs crank&Block&rearseal.
35-40ft-Lbs with 8 dry pistons&cylinders.
Maple Grove is possible, but Still need a cam to come through. I'm waiting for a response from Lunati. Thanks to several who have offered Ram III and Ram IV cams. Stand by...
Note: In context with other messages: I have 2 timing covers with Aluminum waterpumps, with factory bolts(wirewheeled). I tried Stainless 5/16 bolts before but was riddled with detorquing issues. The factory bolts have been maintenance free and look great.
H.I. Stud