[Half-Inch Stud]

Jim, et al,

I plan on installing my black vinyl top. got all the parts, and will soon buy the glue material.

I see installation and long-term issues, and have pre-conceived solutions...here's my plan:

1. To achieve Wrinkle-free, stress-free lay: The wrinkled top is unfolded, and hung around for about 2 months for de-wrinkle.

2. Centering the top: paint a 2foot diameter glue patch on the Hardtop center, lay top onto car and perform positioning. OK to walk the glue towards the sides, but not fore/aft. Measure the 2 seams to be equal-distant from drip-rails. Place a uniform weight(s)(I plan to use a spare decklid) on this area. Recheck these 2 seams to be equal-distant from drip-rails.
Walk away for a few days of curing.

3. Peel back the un-adhered regions, paint some more glue onto the hardtop, to finish the adhesion job. Use hands to squeegie the excess glue risers out, by stroking towards edges. Stuff suitable rope or hose along the drip rails to keep the top adhered to the hardtop curvature.

4. Install Windshield and rear window. Cut slits for windshield chrome clips, add 3M black adhesive to seal these clips during stainless re-install. Hero effort would be to wrap top material along the windshield gutter, and install clips onto rivet-studs that are popped-through top material...the 1972 top was done that way by GM. Again, seal top material breaches with 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. Terminate top edging material along the windshield sealant edge....this will promote a continuous top-edging appearange in the long-term event of shrinkage.
Leave the lower rear window section and sailpanels undone for now...

5. Install drip-rail stainless moldings; along side windshield and side windows. The illusion here is the top material terminates at the upper edge of the molding. Use a Stanley No 1992 blade to trim the TOP material flush to the metal drip rail, then add 3M sealant along this seam, and install stainless trim to catch only a little of the top material, if any get caught at all. Long-term shrinkage should cause top material to rise from the gutter, rather than visibly pull away from the side-molding.

6. Work the lower rear window panel, starting from center, work toward sailpanels...Certainly apply glue in this region to promote a sort of water barrier.

7. Lastly, "dry-fit" install sail-panel molding, and mark the lower edge onto the top material. Also, mark the upper edge onto the body paint. CUT the top material to follow the lower edge. Paint the glue onto the hardtop, staying above the upper hardbody line. Hand-Squeegie as you go. Slide-Install molding in manner that allows top edge to tuck into molding. Squeegie some more.

8. paint the glue as needed in the rear corners. Install corner molding. As usual, use windshield sealer (like dum dum) to waterseal around each cast stud.


Notes: Remove drip-rail moldings by stroking a hammer onto a stainless putty Knife handle. Blade is worked into the underside lip of the drip-rail molding. Work from front to back...takes 10minutes to remove the 4 moldings.

Any problem s with this Plan. Aspiring minds want to know!

HIS