[Hammered]

Bill,

I like to lay the epoxy on fairly wet and usually do two coats unless I need to cut in around things, then I'll do two coats after cutting in. I would still use the DPLF 90 because any missed spots (like inside cavities) will still look presentable after urethane. Seam sealer can usually be top coated within a couple of hours so that shouldn't slow you up. Further, the DP can be top coated within a few hours (read the P sheet) if you only spray one coat (your third coat). I like the 401 hardner because it gives you a little more pot life and is supposed to adhere better, but you need to give it 30 minutes before you spray and it requires longer waits before it can be top coated.

Look at the chip books for late model cars and you'll see some semi-flat blacks called "underhood" colors. I have not used these so ask the rep about them. You typically can't flatten urethanes because they are designed to gloss out so well so these look like a good way to go IMO.

What I would do after the phosphoric:

Day 1, afternoon: shoot 2 coats DP90
Day 2, morning: seam seal (the epoxy will not be so tender at this point), scuff off any nibs or annoyances in DP
Day 2, afternoon: shoot 1 coat DP90 to cover sealer (sealer must be top coatable in this period of time)
Day 3, morning: shoot top coat
Day 3, afternon: drink beer and admire underneath of car.

John