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Originally Posted by tom s
you set the initial at 23?Dont think mine would start with that much!
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No I set the mechanical advance at 23 degrees (rev to 3000 rpm and disconnected the vacume hose). I did this first since the initial problem that caused me to mess with the timing in the first place was a secondary backfire because the distributor walked.
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Originally Posted by kenth
I think you have a lean condition due to either vacuumleak (bad flange gasket/cracked hose/s?) or clogged ilde circuit/misadjusted idle screws or a hotter than standard camshaft ( over 225 degrees @ .050").
Check vacuum in manifold with vacuum gauge.
Initial timing is usually set at idle speed, you may check the advance at 2500rpmīs though.
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The cam is definalty a hotter cam, but I have no specs on it and I don't want to tear the engine down.
Don't know if the flange gasket is any good or not (the carb hasn't been off the manifold in seven years) but all the hoses look tip top. I am adjusting the throttle stop for the idle so it is possible the carb may need a teardown. Where would I hook up a vacuum gauge to check manifold pressure?
About the idle speed. do you set initial timing with the car idling in gear (D) or in park? I set the idle speed with the car in gear and then checked the initial timing. Should I re do it?
Originally I put the car in park and set the idle at 600, set the timing at 6 degrees initial, and then revved it up to take a reading on the mech advanced and total, I got 37 degrees mechanical advance and 50+ degrees total. That is why I decided to set the mechanical first and adjust the idle to compensate.