You should listen to the majority on the surface condition of the rotors. Scruffed up isn'tan option; rather, it's mandatory, and this is common knowledge that even helper automotive technicians. Take a look at any technical manual about this issue. Not that it isn't an issue that should be addressed if the condition exists, but lack of grease in the bearings wouldn't cause the problem. In fact, it would aid in the braking because it's already slowing down the car, according the the logic that is applied.
It might be sticking calipers, but I would start with the master cylinder and brake rod. You THINK THAT IT'S IN THE CORRECT HOLE? I don't know which hole it needs to be in but if it were my car, I'd find out and KNOW THAT IT'S IN THE CORRECT HOLE!
And maybe it's the porporting valve. I don't like to throw money at a problem as a way to troublehsooot it. In this case, however, I would start with a different master cylinder. You can start with calipers, hoses, and work your way back with the hit-or-miss process, but if you keep us posted as you work your way back to the master cylinder, I'll take a major gamble and feel confidant that I can say "I told you so" as you work your way to the brake rod/master cylnder.
A question to engineer: Not suggesting metallic pads, but why would you not use metallic pads on manual drums? Please explain the differences of the hydralic values, whereby the hydralic value differs between manual and power. Maybe I have overlooked something, but I don't see where the hydralic value differes at the caliper. In other words, x-pounds of pressure at the caliper is x-pounds, regardless to whether the force is manual pressure or assisted pressure.
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