Mike,
Do NOT hone those throttle bores, just clean with a brush, Scotchbrite, and carb spray. Do not be concerned with antiseptic cleanliness or appearance with these internal areas. Clean the various assemblies BEFORE evaluating their condition and making extra work and expense for yourself. The original shafts are not bushed and don't require being bushed unless the throttle shafts are loose, which is usually only on the center carb, as the outer carbs only operate near or @ full throttle.
Only use solvent and air pressure to clean the small passages in the venturi clusters, per the service manual. Laquer thinner and Acetone may help remove the varnis/crud.
Removing the stuck pump discharge ball retainer requires pulling upward with needle-nose pliers and LIGHTLY twisting the pliers @ the same time.
Performing the throttle plate "light test" must be done on a cleaned unit as the crud prevents full closure. The throttle plates will move with some effort, once the securing screws are backed off. The plates are "pinched" in the shafts when the screws are tight, but when loose, they allow for a small amount of "wiggle" room.
Les
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Les Iden
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'65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23
'66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16)
'68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold)
'72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16)
'97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed
'09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins
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