Quote:
|
Originally Posted by gto4evr
"To test the switch with your gauge, connect the engine vac line directly to the switch (bypass the t going to the can) and then connect the gauge to each line seperately going to up and down positions. You should have same reading each way. if it's lower on the closed side, then your headlight switch is leaking.
Wow, was that long winded....good luck and let me know what happens!
|
I think that is basically what I did in my test isn't it? I took off the line going to the can from the tee and put my vacuum gauge there instead. With the headlight switch open and the engine running, I was seeing 16" of vacuum on the gauge (vacuum coming from engine to switch and routed out the open side of the switch with the gauge in the middle reading the vacuum). When I shut the headlight switch off (vacuum now coming from engine to switch routed out the closed side of the switch), it only read 10". Now, I suppose I could try taking the gauge with a tee between the hoses going to the actuators after the switch and try the same test as you suggested , but wouldn't it be the same results?? Like you said, if it were a bad actuator, I would think the other one would be fine, but with the passenger one working but slow, it does sound like a leak on the closed side. I will try again with the other tests, but probably won't be til this weekend. Thanks for both of your help