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Originally Posted by jeffgoss
Don't you have to pull the upper control arms in a weird angle to get the 10 or 12 bolt to fit?
I have a 10 bolt 3.55 BOP rearend, but thought it wasn't a direct bolt in-hence the need for the conversion arms.
Jeff
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If it's out of a 64' - 72' A-Body; it will bolt in. BUT; the angle on the upper control arms is slightly different than the G-Body angle. But it is so slight; that most people don't bother with "conversion" arms. It will bolt right in; especially if it still has the original or even aftermarket bushings. Usually put your LCA bolts in and then jack up the rear until your UCA's will reach down on to the 'ears" and then use an impact to persuade them right through.
On my car; I was trying to get the suspension as "free" as possible for weight transfer purposes, so I went with the "Iceman" "12-bolt conversion" UCA's. They work flawlessly and make the swap simple; with no forcing or "leveraging" the bolts at all.
Like I mentioned earlier; if you run a "deep" off-set wheel. you'll probably get to grind a little on your lower shock bolt. Mine hit on my "rim-screws". And just barely.
Here's kind of a rule of thumb for wheels:
1964 - 1967 A body rear in a G-body car if using an 8" wheel will need 4.5 BS.
1968 - 1972 A body rear in a G-body car if using an 8" wheel will need 5.5 BS.
Depending on some of the variance in the G-body wheel wells; a 1/4" spacer may or may not be needed. If it's needed at all' it's usually only one one side. If seen Malibu's use them on the passenger side.
And in all of my dealings; they need some massaging in the rear of the wheel well, right above the frame.