David,
I agree with Will- get those no.16s ported, put some 2.11/1.77 Ferreas in your heads, and your 400 will make better use of the cam and extra RPM. A higher stall torque converter (2000 to 2500 rpm) will launch you off the line (or out of the corners) with more power.
I'd go with lighter forged units than the TRW/ Speed Pros- the JE (SRP), Ross, or Probe (SRS) units are much lighter and will help you accelerate out of the corners faster. The stock cast rods are only good for stock buildups and a grenaded motor in racing- a set of Tomahawk 4340 Lightweight I-beam rods are lighter and stronger than 4340 H-beams, and will help that 400 rev hard. Pacific Performance Racing has both the dished SRS pistons and I-beam rods at very reasonable prices. The stock crank will be fine for a 400 hp buildup, just be sure to prep and debur the crank as outlined in Jim Hand's Pontiac book. I would also replace the stock main and head bolts with ARP units- stud bolts for the mains and head bolts up top- these are far stronger than the factory pieces. Don't forget to get your rotating assembly balanced.
I run a modified Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary- it has the jet extensions, nitrophyl floats, secondary metering block, etc. It is very easy to tune, and I never starve for fuel in the turns unlike those other carbs with side-hung float bowls. I'm using a port-matched e-performer intake, and the combo doesn't choke the motor even at 5800 rpms (past 6000 may be another story). I have a crane 284H cam (230@ .050, 284 dur., .480" lift), Hooker comps and 2.5" dual exhaust. I had a tired TH-350 w/ a 2000 stall converter, 3.08 10-bolt posi, and my 'Bird still ran a 13.04 @104 mph. Not bad for a 'Bird set up for road race.
Geno
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