Quote:
Originally Posted by 440GP69
why does the 290b work so well with a 106 lsa in a 455? seams too narrow yet works great even on the street.
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A healthy dose of overlap to crutch moderate intake port flow performance,lots of additional exhaust lobe to extend the power curve upwards slightly,that also keeps it from "dropping off" the power curve after the peaks,also has a relatively early IC event that helps build a healthy amount of cylinder pressure by trapping a nice dense intake charge that was helped along by some excaptional exhaust scavenging,nothing too complicated really.
Worst thing you can do to a cam like that is run a restrictive exhaust system with it.
Agree it'll work fine with nitrous too,I have a 290b6 in the B/U 406 for the race car,that engine will be getting sprayed plenty someday I assure ya'll.
I would advise watching the for sale forum here very closely,tons of deals pop up on some very good hardware.
Take some heads for instance,you wont be able to build a set for what I've seen some nice ones go for here recently,and if I were even remotely going to consider building a set of iron heads,I would suggest considering the aftermarket aluminum offerings,the cost is very competitive with nice iron heads,that is unless your getting a bunch of the parts & labor for those iron heads at a healthy discount or such.
If you use the iron heads,at the miminum plan on replacing all the OE 2 pc. valves with quality 1 pc. stainless steel valves,fill the exhaust crossovers,open up the pushrod holes for high ratio rockers,that sorta stuff...
If your gonna spray it with a healthy shot,definitely plan to use a single plane intake,my preference is the torker II or victor.
Dont waste any money on "flashy" or "trick" parts or machine work that some might suggest as necessary,stick to basics,if it does'nt have a valid reason to be needed,dont use/do it.
Do use a torque plate for the bore/hone though,and zero deck it (or as close as is practical).
Cast crank is fine.
If the mains are straight,run them.
Agree good/strong/light-weight forged rods and pistons are both worth spending on.
And do spring for a good balance job,bring them everything that your gonna bolt to the crank,flexplate,balancer,that sorta stuff.
And spring for a good oil pan & PU to control the oil in the sump.
And a HD OP shaft is too.
And dont go cheap on the valvesprings,pushrods,or rocker arms either.
With a healthy solid cam turning some RPM's,plan to run a stud girdle too...
Dont waste big money on a shiny new distributor here,get a useable HEI and gut it of it's electronic module and such,then lock it out,and use that to trigger your prefered "bug zapper" box with a good coil and some quality plug wires and your all done for ignition needs.
What you will definitely want for any serious nitrous use is some means to retard the timing when "on the kit",especially if your spraying a healthy shot,lots of options for that with the aftermarket ignition boxes.
And dont skimp on the fuel system either,use a smaller fuel cell,a
GOOD fuel pump with an external return on it,proper plumbing hardware and line sizing,then use a fuel log with the right regulators for the engine and kit and again your done here.
Exhaust,yeah the mad dog headers would be worthy,those really are nice,use a minimum of 3" pipes from the collectors,use an H or X pipe (your preference),and dont run restrictive mufflers,make sure the mufflers you use are very free-flowing like the dynomax ultra-flo's or such.
Better yet,,,if race only,,,just use some collector extensions and make some noise!!!
Drivtrain is mostly standard high-perf stuff,auto trans of choice,and as stated use a quality built converter (dont skimp here),match the trans/stall/gear/tire package to the combo,use good axles,and loose the C-clips,and IMO a HD cro-mo driveshaft is a must with 1350 solid U-joints and good yokes.
Suspension is one area you can save money if you know what your doing,sure the cal-tracs are nice and all,but not mandatory.
I know for a fact any given leaf-sprung car can hook just fine with far less sophisticated hardware when it is all set-up properly.
Make sure the saftey gear is there,and I would strongly suggest at least a 6 pt. roll bar and subframe connectors and solid body bushings to stiffen the car up some.
Low 11's should be no problemo if you dont get distracted somehow,or botch on the tuning or chassis.
