[67ramair4]

Why do you need so much fuel if it's not seeing the strip? 3/8" line from the tank to Carter electric pump to a Carter mechanical pump up front. I've used this for over 30 years without any fuel starvation issues. Yes, it did see the strip; 12.7 ET's (back in the day of good gasoline).

Just wondering,
Jake

Originally Posted by old66tiger

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a new fuel system for my GTO. First off, let me tell you that when I make mods to the car, I like to try to do it once and only once. Can't afford to keep on throwing money at the car over and over. My car is a 66 GTO convertible with a 455 and a custom built Q-Jet (in the process) which is replacing my tri-power. Anyway, the car see's no track time, just some serious rip and get street pounding.

Anyway, I will be sending the tank to the radiator shop to get a 1/2" bung installed at the bottom of the tank, one at the top of the tank and a new larger vent. From the back of the car, I was going to run 1/2" flexible line from the tank to the frame section located right before the rear wheel and then convert to 1/2" stainless tubing (0.028" wall tubing). Reason for the conversion to tubing is that I need to run the tubing through the frame (front of the car) along side of the 5/16" factory fuel line and the area where the fuel line pass THROUGH the frame looks to be too small to accommodate a 1/2" hose along with the 5/16" tubing. I plan to use the 5/16" tubing for either a bypass system like Cliff uses or vapor return line for a mechanical system.

So, here are my choices:

1. Comp 140 electric back at the tank with a RobbMc pre-filter. Mount a RobbMc fuel pressure regulator at the motor and right before the regulator, insert a T in the line to recirculate some of the fuel back to the tank (Cliff's design). Run a RobbMc post filter.

2. RobbMc 1100 series mechanical pump up front with a RobbMc regulator. Run a RobbMc pre and post filter and install a vapor return fitting on the regulator to send back a small portion of the fuel to the tank to reduce possibility of vapor lock.

Both options are a big investment for me and without any real experience with either option, I am in a deadlock situation.

Electric pros and cons:
+ when plumbed properly, constant supply of cool fuel to the carb
+ remove clutter at the front of the motor except for the regulator.
- Not as reliable??? Reports of people losing an electric pump without much warning.
- electric draw on the alternator - even as small as it is, there is still drain on the system.

Mechanical pros and cons:
+ Very reliable - not too many reports of the pump just dying.
+ the 1100 pump can be used with an external regulator, improving delivery and the ability to run lower pressures to keep from over driving the carb seat.
+/- Can recirculate a small portion of fuel like the electric however the potential exists for heating the fuel
- lots of equipment to fit in a small space by the motor. regulator will see some heat from the motor.
- reports of some that run out of fuel on the top end.
+ Excellent customer support

Am I over thinking this to the max??? Just want a reliable car that I can get in, hit the key and not have to worry about carrying around spare parts with me.

Opinions welcomed. Thanks...