[hootsk]

On both the Kansas and Minnesota drums both the center axle hole and stud holes are slightly wider than the Tempest's. Keith measured 1/8" wider, I got less than 1/16" (we may be using different drums). However, both drums were tight on the Tempest hub and rear axle because I had put new, longer studs in both, and the new studs -- in order to make up for cutting out the old swedge studs -- have wider, tapered bases. They both fit exactly. (On a hub or axle with original studs they would likely be too loose. It's Kanter for those cars.)

However, the Kansas drum trumps the Minnesota one because the slightly wider inner diameter (9.061" vs 8.909") happens to fit the Tempest shoes' curve better. I tried a few sets of old shoes and they were all pretty much perfect in the Kansas drum. The Minnesota drum was always slightly too small and the shoes hit unevenly, on the ends.

The other reason the Kansas drum is a better candidate is because the inside edge design is a lip, like the OEM drum, rather than a trench like the Minnesota one, and fits the backing plate better.

The trick now is to roll a set of four real-world in a road test. But before that can happen it has to be determined if the drum can be cut for the shoes' correct side-to-side play. When the Kansas drum is slid onto a hub and has a wheel bolted up to it, it turns freely only if the lugs aren't cranked down too much. If you crank them down, which is of course necessary, the drum drags. From the inside of the drum it looks like it's because the shoes are rubbing on the inside edge. But the inside wasn't cut down for the full width, so if I take off the excess it may be fine.

Back to the brake lathe.

It'd be great if this worked, because I don't think even Kanter sells the finned V8 front drums. I have just one of those left, and it isn't that thick.

Chuck