I don't think you mentioned what static compression the engine has. If you don't know how far down in the bore the piston is at TDC, how many cc's the combustion chambers are, and the compressed thickness of the head gasket, you will only be making a wild guess as to what the compression is (and probably be wrong). For the cam you have you will need 11 to 1 for it run optimumly. That is my opinion and I recommend contacting the cam grinder to be sure. I can tell you for sure you have nowhere near enough converter or gearing, 4000 flash stall and 4.10 gears minimum are what that cam wants, again I repeat minimum. A big cam in a mismatched combination is the number 1 reason muscle cars lose a race to a turbo import car. If you do have enough compression for this cam, adding turbos to this engine will bring immediate fatal results. No problem with NO2, but forgret about boost. Optimimize your engine, driveline, suspension, and tires, and this car should be quick enough with a 150 hp shot of nitrous to require major safety upgrades to race at most tracks. Your misfire at cruising speed (if your timing is set properly) I can almost guarantee, is due to a lean mixture of the idle transition circuit. This can not be adjusted with the idle mixture screws or changing the jets. There is no reason not to have a wideband O2 sensor in any true performance car. Also, if you are reading plugs and using any of the charts in commonly found in repair manuals that show horribly carboned up plugs, you are not reading them properly. racingsecrets.com has a great video and plug reading light for sale. As far as tuning out the miss in your engine, the general tuning forum on innovate motorsports website, will blow your mind with the references and advice available and I recommend everyone with a performance car to visit there. I thought I was real good with carbs until I got a wideband setup and realized how wrong I was and how much I had to learn. However, learning to properly read plugs is still critical.
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