Thanks for the kind words guys.
After doing 'budget builds' most of the time on my projects I figured I'd do this one up as 'right' as I could afford to this (probably last) time around. Not that I haven't had great fun and good results while keeping the costs low over the years, I've never been unhappy doing things 'on the cheap'.
The old front suspension is still in fine shape and ready to bolt on and go, however it was
sold a few weeks ago to a local PY member. Shipping costs would have been a killer on this, even with me packing it all up for no added cost like I do with everything I sell off.
I'll be sure to update this thread later on when I install the new GM 15/16" bore manual master cylinder and Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, along with all the new plumbing necessary to make it all work.
Costs involved so far for those interested:
Front brake kit - $1136.50
Rear brake kit with internal parking brake - $1759.00
Lokar parking brake cables and hardware - $175.00
SPC front upper control arms - $340.00
SPC front lower control arms - $548.00
Cast aluminum lower spring seats and shim kit (ride height adjustment) - $58.00
Progressive Rate Jounce Bumpers - $26.90
ATS AFX forged aluminum spindles - $585.00
ATS billet aluminum A-body steering arms - $215.00
SKF racing hubs - $760.00
Moog upper ball joints - $50.00
Moog outer tierod ends - $70.00
H-O Racing Specialties front springs - $0 (20+ years old with 40K miles on them)
Currie Currectrac adjustable upper rear control arms - $299.95
Currie Currectrac lower rear control arms - $389.95
Global West S-60 rear springs - $60.00 (unused new parts from private party)
Hotchkis rear mounting braces - freebie
Pro-built 8.5 corporate 3.42 posi rear end complete - $1734.00
O.Z. Racing Ultraleggera 18x9" wheels - $358.00 X 5 (spare wheel included) = $1790.00
5 new tires - $660.00
Front wheel adapters - $150.00
Bilstein shocks - $300.00
Energy Suspension polyurethane body to frame mounts - $120.00
That's covers most of it, add in about 500 dollars or so for shipping all of this stuff.
The really
hard-core A-body Pro-Touring guys pull the body off the frame and usually do one of 2 things:
1) Box the stock frame and reweld all of the factory weld seams, then send it out for sandblasting and powdercoating.
2) Toss the factory frame altogether and put an aftermarket frame under the car, with
way better and much pricier suspension stuff than I'm using.
There's always a better way to do it and a way to spend even more money as you know.
This is just about it for me.
