Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT8U2
Low timing makes the engine run HOTTER, you can prove it with an EGT gauge as timing causes the EGT to go down. And usually your car idles more than cruising so running 8 to 12 degrees at idle is an easy way to heat up the cooling system on a Big Block. Modern era vehicles have this timing due to emissions, not cooling.
IF you have vacuum advance and an adjustable Mechanical Advance Distributor, I don't see the reason in running anything higher than 10 degrees initial/base. The higher initial timing will cause starting issues on higher compression motors and when the engine is hot and possibly heat soaking the starter. Ever since I went to this method of timing I've never had an issue starting after a long drive on my 11.3:1 compression engine.
I have 24 degrees of timing at 1200rpm, this will ensure that the timing is lowering the EGT at idle and reducing the demand of the cooling system. Those who lock out the timing at say 34 degrees will add they notice a HUGE difference in idle temps over their old Ported Vacuum setup.
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So you are saying run 10* initial and 24* by 1200 rpm? If so how are you getting the extra 14* in just a few hundred rpm?