Quote:
Originally Posted by gtome
You need to run the battery cable from the battery (and the other wire that was originally on the battery post of the starter) to the left side post of the remote solinoid, and then run the cable to the starter from the same post. Basically keeping the starter hot just like it was from the factory, but with a junction at the remote solinoid. Then run your original "start" terminal ( that was on your "s" on the starter) to the "s" on the remote solinoid. Then just run a 8g - 10g wire from the large (right side) cold post from the remote solinoid to the "s" terminal on the starter. If you hook it this way it will be fine.
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this only replaces the purple exciter wire which can help sometimes as it bypasses poor voltage due to the circuitous path that wire takes from bat to starter.
I much prefer Quicksilvers way and the way blackdeath tried. the ford type relay to starter cable is always dead -except- when the purple wire from key switch that used to go to starter is used to energize the relay instead of the starter solinoid. the new ford type relay then sends full power to both the starter motor and the starter solinoid at the same time via the jumper wire quicksilver mentioned. I really like having the starter cable that is snaking down behind hot manifolds totally dead except when cranking.
Blackdeath, if you were able to see inside the ford relay, its just a big high amp 12v switch that is activated by low amp 12v (small terminals) to join the big terminals from the battery side to the starter side. thats why there was no voltage to starter when you put a cable on each big post, its waiting for power from key and purple solinoid wire to turn on that big relay. dont forget to install the the jumper on starter solinoid or starter will just spin but not engage..