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The fuse box receives power from two different wires. Part of the box should be hot all the time and part of it hot with the ignition switch on. It all comes through the firewall bulkhead connector from under the hood, then splices off to different places. The non-switched wiring that powers part of the fuse box also powers the headlight switch.

Fuse link wire protects the main power supply wire under the hood in case there's a short in circuits not protected by the fuse box; like headlights and ignition.
On lighting, headlights are the only ones protected by the fuse link only. Other lighting, like tail lights, courtesy lights, and dash lights have fuse box protection.

The headlight switch also has two hot wires going to it. The one for the headlights and another for front marker, tail, and dash. The dash lights have an extra fuse (smallest in box) that's only hot when the headlight switch is on. It's power comes through the tail light fuse, through headlight switch, back through small fuse, and then on to dash.

No power at all coming in, you'll need to check fuse links. They may not be obviously blown by looking. Insulation can remain intact on the ouside and the wire be melted/blown inside. If so, pull on them and they'll stretch like a rubber band if they're bown.

REMEMBER Something caused the fuse link to blow if it has. So you'll want to inspect where you've been working and make sure no hot wires have gotten pinched or shorted somehow. A simple short should have bown a fuse in the box as long as the properly rated fuses are installed. It usually takes something major in a supply wire or headlight wire to blow a fuse link.

Fuse links are usually bolted to or in the harness right behind the alternator. Some models have them down next to the starter. So hopefully they'll be up top. Horn relay is another popular location if you can't locate them right away.