I'll second the advice on 7/16" straight studs. Its pretty inexpensive and the easiest way to be sure everything matches, and also stronger than the stock bottlenecks. I don't like setting valves with the engine running because it tends to be pretty messy, but you can do it that way. (I did use this method on my dirt track cars where I didn't care much about oil getting on the engine.)
While you have the valve train apart I would run a long straight-edge across the top of the valve stems to make sure that they are all even. This is an easy check to make sure your valve seats are probably OK. I had an engine where the soft factory seats did not stand up to the unleaded gas and all the exhaust valves sunk- worth a quick check.
I also think the Rhodes lifters probably will need to go but still not sure about the cam.
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1969 Lemans vert, matador red, 462 CI, 3.07 12-bolt posi
1974 455 TA, admiralty blue/red interior HPP "cover car" - sold
"The best way to show a car is to drive it"
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