Brian,
Hey I got a sheet of polycarbonate 4'x8' x 1/4"thick from a local company in Indianapolis,In.(Meyer Plastics)no shipping charges we went and picked it up, it is called "PALSUN" like you said there are many names to this stuff,this kind has a scratch resistant on one side.I have a box of 100 count Stainless Steel button head Torks #20 that are 6-32x3/4" from Camcar out of Decorah,IA.I was wanting to know if I should use a small washer/and lock washer/and a polylock nut?The polylock nut will have a washer and lock washer as well on the inside.I plan on like you suggested to drill the holes a tiny bit larger for body flex/climate/temp. changes?Do you think this is over kill or just doing it right the first time and trying not to have it crack once its all tightened down?Now when you heated/molded your 3/16" how exactly did you accomplish this?I read in the thread that to use "clamps,I have four spring loaded ones but I think I need about 4 more??? to get the exact shape and form of the old window's?People may give you some sh!t but you have a great deal of knowledge if others will listen!! Now I will be making my own door window brackets to hold the Lexan/polycarbonate I think that 1/4" steel rod bent and welded to the form of the doors will be fine,just need to call S&W to get the right little brackets to connect the steel to the doors.What do you recommend for the front and rear windows to use as a sealant?? I was thinking of using 100% silicon,that dries firm but will flex with the chassis?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate on my part,as this is the first time I have done anything of this level...
Kind Regards,
Jason
[QUOTE=Brian Baker;3817528]My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:
Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts.