Quote:
Originally Posted by jts ocd-stang
Brian,
Hey I got a sheet of polycarbonate 4'x8' x 1/4"thick from a local company in Indianapolis,In.(Meyer Plastics)no shipping charges we went and picked it up, it is called "PALSUN" like you said there are many names to this stuff,this kind has a scratch resistant on one side.I have a box of 100 count Stainless Steel button head Torks #20 that are 6-32x3/4" from Camcar out of Decorah,IA.I was wanting to know if I should use a small washer/and lock washer/and a polylock nut?The polylock nut will have a washer and lock washer as well on the inside.I plan on like you suggested to drill the holes a tiny bit larger for body flex/climate/temp. changes?Do you think this is over kill or just doing it right the first time and trying not to have it crack once its all tightened down?Now when you heated/molded your 3/16" how exactly did you accomplish this?I read in the thread that to use "clamps,I have four spring loaded ones but I think I need about 4 more??? to get the exact shape and form of the old window's?People may give you some sh!t but you have a great deal of knowledge if others will listen!! Now I will be making my own door window brackets to hold the Lexan/polycarbonate I think that 1/4" steel rod bent and welded to the form of the doors will be fine,just need to call S&W to get the right little brackets to connect the steel to the doors.What do you recommend for the front and rear windows to use as a sealant?? I was thinking of using 100% silicon,that dries firm but will flex with the chassis?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate on my part,as this is the first time I have done anything of this level... 
Kind Regards,
Jason
QUOTE=Brian Baker; My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:
Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts. |
You copied my quote and made it look like I said something I didn't (LOL). People use the 1/8" stuff because it's easier to work with mostly (reread my whole post on that).
For my funny car, I used Nylock nuts with flat washers on the backside of the fiberglass to mount the windshield (see previous post as well for size and type screws). You may not need flat washers for a steel body, but they won't hurt. I didn't apply any heat to mine, I simply cut it very carefully and started in the middle of the roof and the doghouse, working my way outward to the A-pillars and down to the cowl last. Like anything else, measure twice and cut/drill once. Being it was the first time I tried this myself I was pleased with the results. I didn't run a sealer on mine, just painted the backside about 1" in from the edges gloss black to match the treatment painted on the body. Any bath-tub type caulk/sealer should work fine...you want something that is going to remain pliable after it cures so that it doesn't crack.