One place to look for an SR stamp is seen in the pic in the other thread where you can see the rad hose on the left. I've seen them stamped on the corner of the block in the area that looks black in the picture. Again, he should verify what this block is by removing the front accessories and cleaning it followed by careful inspection. if the face milling is "correct" all the way across and there's an SR, at least he knows what he's got. Typically a car with an SR block --or in the chevy world an "acknowledged" restamp--(lol Z-28 guys) is advertised as NOM. Numbers Original Matched/ing iirc on that nomeclature. I've seen "bread and butter" SR blocks --i.e. from catalinas etc. that look like this one stamping-wise on the VIN. I've also seen bare--never installed -- SR RAIVs , 421s and others that are blank --no EUN, no VIN, no letter coding just SR and the block casting dates and numbers---including the reground portion on the RA IV casting numbers. If the original owner blew this one up very early in its life, honestly, i wouldn't be too concerned if it was an SR. The factory ground off and stamped the RA IVs just so the casting numbers matched the original to avoid owner claims. I believe it was oldsmobile that was sued in the late 60s over cylinder head casting numbers not matching published specifications on some of the new cars they sold--GM got very conscious about parts id and performance cars as a result. There's another thread going about ground and restamped heads--despite all that's said there--those may be legit. But i digress--sorry. ;~) The lack of a match with the transmission on the other hand is what really messes up the seller's claim of originality. Also to answer someone else's question above, SRs technically had to be stamped with a VIN on installation for legal reasons--so that it matched the car it went into. Prevention of later fraud or theft claims.
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