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What exactly was happening with these bad cylinders? Is it just that they're sucking air in through those seals?
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What I read somewhere was air can be sucked past the cups inside the bore. Apparently there are different designs for the cups, with later designs adding expanders to reduce this. This has nothing to do with the boots you see on the outside, but something about the piston cups inside.
Maybe some day when I get to work on my car again and replace those rears, I'll see if I can suck air by pulling a vacuum on the port. It might bring closure for me before I launch them as far as I can throw them.
I share your pain.
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My combo valve is from inline tube, so I'll call them and confirm if it does or does not contain a residual pressure valve.
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Mine too, along with my master. I trust the company and they provide great quality products and support. One of their techs told me it had the resid pressure valve, another said no. Gotta believe that thousands have been sold and used with success, with or without the resid valve.
If I were doing it again, I would not think about the resid pressure valve until replacing the rear cylinders. Adding the valve is a pain because you have to break the line, chase fittings, flare the tubing, etc. and when you are done, it looks wrong and you've added more connections.
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if I crack a rear bleeder open, shouldn't fluid stream out since it's under 10lb. of pressure from the residual pressure valve?
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I don't think you would notice. There is nothing pushing on the system, so there won't be enough displacement when you crack the bleeder to see much fluid. It would take a lot of residual spring stretch or other source of displacement to cause a steady stream. 10 psi is not enough to push the shoes against the springs, so at rest, the springs will retract the shoes and push the pistons back, then end up with just that little bit of pressure (10 psi) left. Without the valve, the springs would push back the same, just wouldn't leave the 10psi residual.
Good luck with this.
Mike