[grandville455]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I found the CS130D listing by clicking:
High Output Alternators
GM Alternators
Non Chrome
Late model Small Case High Output Alternator (internal fan)

I purchased the 140 Amp max - 105 amp idle for $135, 1 spool & 1 threaded ear, and the natural aluminum case. Looks like you will have to call them about the V-belt swap from the serpentine pulley. There was no additional cost and they put the V-belt pulley on. I just called Ron and he said that he would add our V-pulley on the list of options - until then you can just call and talk over your needs.

My old ebay chrome 100 amp one-wire was working, but after missing lane call because of a dead battery I knew it was time to do something about it. The one-wire might have been high amperage, but it must have been all at high RPM. We finally figured out that after leaving the track back to the pits it was only charging enough to keep the idiot light off and not enough to keep the battery up with the fan and water pump running. I figure that by the time I pull up to do my burn out now, the battery is back up from starting, and the alternator is only pulling enough power to keep the battery topped off.
1967Tepest, yes the alternator is drop in, and can be run as an internal regulator three wire, or a one-wire unit by simply connecting the red wire to the battery output terminal and taping off the idiot light wire if you aren't using it. I always ran the old one-wire alternator as a three wire, so I had previously gutted the external regulator and made the direct connections inside of it. With the nifty adapter wire (cost about $6 extra if I remember), all I had to do was connect the yellow wire to the idiot light circuit and the red wire to a pickup point for voltage sensing. For those of you that have not read Madelectrical.com's editorial on why to always remote sense voltage, it is a good read: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
They also have the wiring diagram to bypass the external regulator for the new internal regulator wiring. Quite a nice site, but I've never seen an update the last several years on their information - luckily most things don't change much.

Oh yeah, the adapter that plugs into the alternator is available either as a pigtail termination or the older plug with both male and female ends. I really could have soldered my wires directly to the pigtails, but went with the older plug on the end that matches the internal regulated alternator terminal. This allows any internal regulator to be quickly substituted in case something does go wrong with the alternator at the track. This adapter will also will allow a very easy alternator conversion if you are swapping over from an internal regulator alternator.

Thanks Mick!...