Jimbro -
Sorry to hear you are still frustrated.
All I can say is your symptoms are close to what mine were, but maybe not exactly. After I bled mine, I had brakes and they didn't feel too bad. Then, I would drive it around the block, and after I pressed the pedal a few times (10 to 20), my brakes would soften up and I ended up exactly with your symptoms. The pedal would go nearly to the floor before I could get some braking, but I never completely lost all braking effect. I would bleed again and it would be working again, then they would go away after several pedal strokes. I finally concluded I was sucking air into the back system at the wheel cylinders.
Ed - I think you are describing the same thing - when the rears don't build pressure, the pedal travels a lot farther than normal before the fronts start working.
Jimbro, I think you still have air in your rear system and either your bleeding method is not working, you have a leak, you have air trapped in the master, or you too are sucking air on the return stroke. If you can get it to a shop safely and have them pressure bleed, would probably be worth it. If it fixes it, you win. If not, I hope you find someone that can figure it out.
I forgot if your m/c has bleed screws? When I replaced my master (unrewarding repair attempt number 26), I bought one from Inline Tube that had bleed screws. I seemed to have more success bleeding after I got that. If I removed a line between m/c and combo valve, I would bleed at the master first and was surprised how much air I would get there. I figured it was the high point in the system, and air might get trapped there and get pulled back into the master easily. I never understood how bleeding could eliminate a trapped bubble like that, so right or wrong, it made sense to me to have those bleed screws at the master.
Hope you find a simpler path soon.
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