Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid
I mean like at NAPA, AZ, etc.
Also, would it be neccessary to remove the inner springs when breaking in the Crower 60242 cam?
Flat tappet, hydraulic, stock rocker ratio, 221/229 @ .050" 455/468 112 LSA
It's not that radical is it?
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It's not the
cam that matters, it's the
valve springs.
You are likely to have real problems if there's more than 130 lbs of seat pressure. Remove the inner springs if needed to get below 130 lbs. Of course, you'll want appropriate oil as well. I assure that the lifters rotate in the bores by marking the lifter and the lifter bore with a Sharpie, then turning the cam. Spin the crank a few turns--or perhaps just the cam if the timing chain isn't installed yet--and you'll be able to tell if the lifters spin. They may not all spin the same amount, but they better all rotate some amount.
Lunati suggested to me to break my BBC cam in with a couple of thousandths of lash, so there's no valve spring pressure scraping the oil film off of the base circle. I guess that cools/lubricates the lifter foot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud
STP oil treatment
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I think that was once true; but may not be any more. I'm thinking STP lowered the level of high-pressure additive. At any rate, I prefer to not thicken the oil with high-viscosity additives.
I bought Federal-Mogul break-in lube at the local NAPA; about $5 a bottle, and it's thin enough not to screw up the viscosity of the oil.