The aftermarket ones MIGHT be calibrated correctly, since most sending units work in a particular range. BUT, you have to dig to find the sending unit specs, and, why bother when electric gauges come with sending units (usually).
Aftermarket sending units over the last X number of years have become much more accurate than ones from the past, mostly due to technology, and the requirement by ecu controlled engines. Gauges also react faster than in the past. This basically gives an arguement to using electrical gauges in performance cars.
Obviously, hook up is simplified with electrical stuff as well, making it even another plus for street and street/strip cars. And you can suppliment with a warning light.
There's a hazard with mech gauges, like a line burst in or outside the car. Mech water temp gauges are suceptable to capilary tube failure, which trashes the whole gauge. Another arguement for electrical.
Me, personally, I prefer a mech oil gauge, but I do frequently check the line. They get brittle, the ends get boogered up, and other typical stuff with lines. I keep extra line on hand, and a number of extra fittings, so I can at any time replace an end or line when needed. Also carry spares in the 'road kit' with my tools, as well as a block off plug.
The Cutlass project I'm doing now will get a electrical oil gauge, and am curious as to how that will work. First one ever for me, but it's going to be my daughter driving it mostly, and doubt she'll look at it anyway!
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
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