Quote:
Originally Posted by screamingchief
The way to seperate BJ's is to break that interferece fit by momentarily interupting it.
IE: smack the snot outta the spindle with a BFH in the area around the BJ stud.
Guys always freak out when you tell them that,then they'll start arguing that your going to ruin the spindle doing that,yadda,yadda,yadda and then there is a whole bunch more useless debate back & forth,but in the real world that's just how it's done. Bret P
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Works for me! btw I've never needed anything more than that plus proper placement of my separator tool and a
one pound ball peen! And I used to work on upstate NY cars with all kinds of rust corrosion problems.(fortunately not for a living but enough to know where Bret is coming from) Very rare to find much if any corrosion in the interference fit area. Twenty+ year old original ball joints some worn enough you could disengage the ball from the socket. You dont want any chance of bj stud turning in the spindle. If loose there the taper is going to make it try to separate. Far better to wear out the ball joint than wear out bj
and spindle! You dont want the stud to start turning if the ball is trying to seize from lack of maintenance.
Very familiar with interference fit taper pins and dry fit is important there too and seen failures where someone lubed them so they'd be easier to get out next time. Sure were, they fell out and created a service call. Dry pins could be difficult to remove especially if not hit hard on first strike. Solution hold punch with pliers line up good and and square and smack HARD/FAST. (when holding punch in your hand fear of missing punch actually slows you and weakens the actual hit.) Rarely took me more than one hit. Seen others struggle getting one pin out in time I could rebuild entire drive unit. Taught them my technique and they couldnt believe it made that much difference plus not get hurt should they miss the punch.
Also 30hp -200+hp snowmobile engines use a clutch that is interference fit on a taper shaft with NO keyway. They are dry fit or they come loose causing loss of drive and shaft/clutch damage. Dry fit requires special tool and slight hammer technique to remove, even if only lightly torqued(well below spec)on. Seen newbies break the removal tool trying to remove the clutch without the hammer.(my kid almost ruined mine but fortunately I caught him in time. I backed the tool out smacked the clutch put the tool in a tid more than hand tight and one smack on the tool the clutch was off. He had been tightening and tightening trying to "press" it off couldnt believe how easy it turned out to be doing it the right way.)
Point of my last two paragraphs is interference taper fit is a design parameter and there are techniques to working with it.