PIA huh?
I thought your new chain was going to fix it.
Can you keep it running and get the idle speed down if you give it more initial timing?
IMO maybe start over again. I would disconnect vacuum advance,to rule that out (As Rob said,vacuum advance is worked on last). Tie mechanical advance weights off to prevent mechanical from starting to come in,then JUST work on getting the idle speed down by giving it more initial timing if it wants it and adjusting carb air/fuel mixture screws,and try getting idle speed down. The way it is right now,when your idle speed is around 1000 your mechanical starts to come in and you CAN'T tell what initial is really at. Also,and I think you mentioned this,at about 1000 RPM you are running off your main metering system of the carb,kinda tough to get it to idle good there. Don't worry where initial is set at -give it what it wants! If you can get that idle to smooth out and lower it,you have a good starting point.
Also those balancers are 2 piece and can slip.so the timing that is showing might not be accurate anyway. You can always put a piston stop in the #1 cylinder and turn the engine over by hand CW and then CCW,and mark your balancer where the "0" mark is at both of these positions,the point between these 2 marks is your new "true" timing mark. HTH
PS-Nice weather huh? It rained here all day yesterday and this AM. I drove 1/2 way across the state yesterday to watch my daughter in a softball tournament,only got 1 game in and they called it off! Good luck with the car and the WEATHER! LOL
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‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
‘55 Catalina
‘62 Mercury Meteor-all original, bought new by my grandfather
71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.-now my sons ride
Last edited by 67drake; 05-15-2011 at 11:09 AM.
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