[HWYSTR455]

That's what I did on the Cutlass too, the Classic Auto Air conversion, they pressure tested and flushed the evap core, recal on POA, did the upgraded condenser, hose kit, and Sand compressor. They even refurb'ed the evap box, turned out real nice. It was a AC car to begin with though, so has the factory tinted glass.

Run the rear seat/trunk divider. I believe the all came with them, just got robbed over the years. Owners would jerk them out from the trunk side when they started to fall apart from moisture, etc. I threw a sheet of Dynamat on it, and then stuck the factory insulation on top. Leave the obvious areas of openings though, it allows for proper circulation in the cabin. It won't adversely effect cooling or heating either. Run the insulation under the rear deck, like, where the speakers are. That helps a lot too. You can dynamat that first.

On the glass, well, there may be some good tinting available now, but everyone I've ever seen, especially in areas that are real hot, like texas, that after-the-fact stuff blisters, peels, lifts, you name it. The only real way to do it is replace the glass. It's not as expensive as you think, can buy good used. Cars need new windshields like every 5-7 years anyway. Side glass lasts pretty long, rear glass gets beat up at about half the rate or less than the windshield. I think it offers about 8 - 12% reduction in heat, to give you an idea. Try without first.

Final thing you may want to consider is an electric fan setup with a controller. A two-speed fan and controller will run the fan on low while the AC is on. That adds to dead-stop and creeping traffic cooling performance.

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