Paul, I'll relate this story FWIW: A couple of years ago I was talking to someone who does what I would call "high-end" paint jobs (custom graphics and colors on both classic and late-model vehicles). I noticed his 2 Victory motorcycles with tank graphics and he told me, on a lark, he filled the scalloped metal on the tanks to have a flat surface for the graphics. Victory tanks have a scallop that is probably about 3/4"-1" deep. He said he filled them figuring it would last a year or two, but he figured this would be a good test, being on motorcycles (his and his wifes), and when they cracked, he would either buy new custom tanks or weld in panels over the scallops. When I saw them they were going on about 6 years, according to him, and hadn't cracked yet. I beleive he used "Metal-to-metal", but it could have been "all-Metal", I can't be sure. ( I am NOT suggesting, and neither was he suggesting to apply any type of filler at a thickness anywhere near approaching an inch) But he was convincing enough to me where I have used Metal-to-metal on a quarter (over a weld) on an 08 Impala about 50k ago, and that hasn't cracked yet. I would not hesistate to use it in an area that was previously leaded, like a sail panel joint, or an area where I needed extreme moisture control. I don't know this, but I think it is very similar to regular filler, except some of the inert filler pigments have been replaced with aluminum flakes. It can be somewhat tougher to sand than regular filler, but not as hard as "tiger hair'. On the other hand, you obviously have your procedures and products down, and you know what works for you, so you may never have a need to use it. just my .02.
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