Sorry to hear about the seal failure. I went back to rope seal and mine is dry as a bone. The last seal I installed was a Cadillac neoprene seal before the BOP neoprene was in full production.
I followed Jim Taylor's directions to a T ... radial cuts in the seal grooves, .020" interference above the block, seal lips facing the front, top half bedded in silicone and tyhe lips lubed with petroleum jelly, bottom half dry, leave overnight, remove cap and set bottom(cap) half with silicone and petroleum jelly on the lips, silcone dot the ends of the seal along with the cap/block machined faces, leave overnight ... hell I even left it for a week to dry! I made sure the silicone bead was perfect with no excess goop, the seal grooves were perfectly cleaned, etc.
It leaked so bad the oil would flow across the oil pan rails and would leave an outline of the oil pan wherever I parked. On the road the oil mist would accumulate on my rear bumper.
I figured the seal must have spun but the shop who took it apart said the seal was still perfect, it just didn't grip the crank tight enough to seal.
I put in a Best Graphite seal this time and knock on wood, all is good.
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