You should be able to apply the brakes by hand. Remove the rim and spin the rotor (Use 3 lug nuts installed backwards) to hold the rotor tite to the hub. Then pull out or push in (sideways) on the caliper and the rotor should stop.
There is a transfer lug on most calipers that you need to grind down, if you do not the caliper hits Mark's new bracket on the inside lower edge. Normally you can't even get the 2 bolts installed if you don't grind that down first. NOTE: Grind on the caliper only NOT on your new Scarebird bracket! If you managed somehow, to get both bolts in, I think the caliper's outboard pad would be jammed up against the rotor!
As far as getting all the air out I highly recommend Russell Speed Bleeders. Once you use these one time, you will never go back.
Fronts:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/639580/10002/-1
Rears:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/639600/10002/-1
The sequence of bleeding, as I recall, is to begin at the wheel cyl furthest away from your MC and work in progression one wheel at a time closer. That would be: RR-LR-RF-LF.
If you have added front disc brakes and you kept the original rear drums you need a combination valve plumbed into the system as the fluid and pressure requirements demand it. I don't see how it's possible to get all 4 wheels to stop evenly without one.