this tip is about batterys. ever have a corroded batt term cause your vehicle to not start til you got out(wherever you happened 2 be) & cleaned it, or at least wiggled it back & forth 2 get a better connection? sure, we all have--ain't no fun is it? & somehow it seems even worse & more embarrasing if it happens on your race car when anybody else is watching! well, here's what i like 2 do. 1st, buy a batt w/both top & side posts. 1 is called a 34/78 series. a smaller 1 is called a 75/25 i believe. the trick is 2 hook up both sets of posts. wal-mart sells all the top & side terminals you'll need 2 accomplish this. you can probably find some old batt cables around your shop 2 cut short pieces from 2 connect the top & side posts--if not, you can buy it by the foot at most parts stores. this will give you twice the chance of not losing connection because of cruddy posts/terms. for all race only cars i recommend using 2 of these double post batts, mounted in the trunk area. the '74 vent 2 i bought off racingjunk.com had 2 double post red top optimas mounted in the trunk, but only the top posts were connected. i got some side terms from wal-mart & connected the sides 2 tops on both batts. then i had a good positive connection which i did not have 2 worry about, + had the extra weight in the rear for increased traction--a double whammy all around! for racing, where you'll be draining & charging the batt a lot, the yellow top optima is probably a better choice--its a deep cycle type. i think its # is a D34/78. no, they ain't cheap--$185 from amazon--but they could easily pay for thenselves at 1 race, if your car won't start for the final round, because of a cheaper batt.
