[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Joel Koontz

You want to start that bolt first, or at least only slightly start the other bolts, before you install that one.

If you have any of the other bolts drawing the header up, it will be difficult, or impossible, to start that bolt as the top of the bolt will hit the header tube and won't let you get the bolt verticle to the threads in the hole.

Loosening/removing the collector can sometimes let you get the header in a better position.

They make header bolts with 3/8" heads that provide a little more clearance.

it can help to dent the tube a little bit where the bolt inserts. You can use a long socket extension and then hit is with a hammer from the side.

I have cut down some wrenches and heated/bent some to use for this project.

If you have the header off the car you can slot that bolt hole. Then you can push the header forward to get clearance to get the bolt started and then pull it back to the rear when you get it close to tight.

This is covering all aspects of the task perfectly, dead-on advise. This is obviously from someone who has done this many many times!

If you separate the header tubes, you may have to re-tighten once it heats up, most likely several times / heat cycles. I've found you are better off only separating the rear tube from #8 and #7, there's less warpage/alignmnet issues that way. (the front bolts aren't an issue most of the time anyway)

There are some headers where #1 & #2 suffer the same issue as #5 & # 6 bolts, so it's best to work those 2 bolts on both sides first, at the same time. ( #1 rear + #5 rear, and #2 rear + #6 rear).

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