Great looking hood/job Steve! I thought the cars there at the show were in the parking lot like sardines,( PY Facebook pics show this) your pics put me a lil more at ease...
On the Paint job. I did, and prefer a 3 stage. Base, clear, wet sand and block with 900, and re clear, buff. Black looks a mile deep that way...
1. If your doors have dings, most shops will want to "Block" them on a rack./stand. same with the nose, front valence, same with trunk lid.
2. I would remove the wiring harness to the doors and put down the windows, remove inner door panels, lights out, and marker lights, send the side marker light bezels with car. Remove the lower valence, bumper and tail panel and lights
3. Obviously since you already had to "source" some correct hardware for the front end, IF they want anything besides the nose off, you better have zip lock bags handy and supervise...
4. Your car looks like a good candidate for a "leave it semi together" type job, if your happy with the Jams. Look for a shop WITH a lift, even a body lift , they can block the doors on the car easier, fenders and quarters as well. You can easily eliminate any paint lines/edges in jams by using sponges packed in the jams before paint.
5. Make a contract,WITH Dated Goals .. pay 500 up front, then pay as they work, in 500-1000 increments. I have actually SHOWED them all the money before they started..I worked in a body shop before and know exactly how it goes... starts fine,then insurance work, more quickies, then BLOW out the restoration the guy wants it...Body shops are no different than most builders ( no offense BOSS!! LOL) they often start new work before finishing work they are on.
I want your car on the road too, I want my AC ride someday!!
Edit: may want to stick with same brand of paint your hood guy used, what brand was it? PPG?, Dupont? Martin Seynor? Napa? Sherwin Williams?
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