[TheSilverBuick]

Hadn't updated this thread in a while. Here are some updates. I may actually start it up this weekend!

Finished the connectors on the engine.


I pulled the wiring harness off the engine and cleaned it up. Took about 5 minutes to pull it off the engine.


Finished up the main wiring harness as well. The quick connects plug right into the engine harness. Most the other wires probably won't be used and will be trimmed once installed in the car. The only wires outside the plugs that will be needed is: +12v power, O2 sensor in, Fuel Pump trigger, and torque converter control.

I intend on adding a vehicle speed sensor and possibly a couple pressure sensors for fuel and oil and possibly electric fan control. Some of the other wires might come back into play for boost control down the road.



. I assembled the valvetrain, set the cam timing, topped off the oil and started priming the system. I also made a custom valve spring compressor tool for this engine so I can change the springs down the road when I upgrade the cam.

Here is the used C-cam. Its the 175HP 1bbl cam. Figured I'd use this cam to get the engine running and driving and after I have the car on the road for a while I'll swap to a bigger E-cam, 215HP 4bbl cam. Notice the cam lubricates the followers directly.


Here are the lash adjusters in place before I set the cam housing on.


The stock oil pressure is set at around 30psi, so I swapped the stock relief spring with a spare Buick white spring I had, which is supposed to be 60psi in the Buick (my experience says 75psi). I primed the system up and the system pressurized to 95psi, so I cut three coils off and it dropped to 70psi, which I am good with.



I made a valvespring compressor for when I go to upgrade the springs down the road. I took a spare 9mm allen wrench and a universal stamped steel Buick rocker arm and began cutting, grinding and welding and came up with this. The T shaped one has a notch at the end to hook the oil galley in the lash adjuster hole and I welded a nub on the end of the rocker arm to keep the T part from sliding out. I stuck a standard 6 point impact socket and extensions on the end of the allen handle for extra leverage. I'm considering cutting down the allen handle and simply using the socket and extension for the lever. More compact.


In action. I originally left the loop on the rocker in place, though shaved a bit, for structural reasons, but I think I can safely remove it if I box in the rocker below the allen shaft and on the other side between the opening and slot for the T.


Got the external oil line and regulator working. I had to down size the feed line because it was bleeding off the main line pressure as well.

Right now I have a temporary 1/8th inch fuel line (rated to like 120psi..) for the external line, but I'll order up something more permanent. Worse case I'll go with some copper line since there isn't any flexing once installed. I need to come up with an oil return location. there is a rubber plug on the side of the oil fill tube so I might install the return into that or make a new oil fill cap with the return line fitting on it.

An interesting observation on the main line oil pressure gauge. I noticed this gauge takes a while to show pressure build up compared to the electric oil pressure gauge on my Skylark when I did a back to back test. On this engine both oil pressure gauges come off the same tee and one is clearly slower in responding, the one with the long plastic line. I think the air in the line causes the long delay and slow response in oil pressure, which is a common thing in mechanical oil pressure gauges.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcDLi...Jo4BJ5Am4jH-sA

Got the shop and tools cleaned up and organized today. Got the engine back on the run stand and found some radiator hoses from NAPA. Hopefully the radiator doesn't leak =P I'll get two mufflers ready for testing as well.

Getting ready for install, hopefully no serious hiccups when I do the fuel pressure test and start up.





Due to a friend's huge generosity I may be going to a reverse flow cooling system sooner rather than later! He said he has an automotive electric water pump and controller that is about ten years old but had never been installed/used that he is just going to give me!

So I went down to NAPA and asked them what the largest diameter heater hose they keep in stock was and I was delighted to hear they had 50ft of 1" heater hose. So I went to the hardware store and picked up a pair of 1" steel water nipples and welded them to a pair of steel freeze plugs. Due to heat while welding, changing the inside shape, etc I may have to find a way to positively retain them in the block. Like a set screw or plate. I'll cross that bridge later. Here is a pair of mock up photos.





Oh yeah, started on a control panel as well. Just have to wire it up.