Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce
Here is a picture for you I dug up having been here before. This is '72. 1973 was different.
Make sure the thermo switch and vacuum flap units do not leak ( mighty vac time) before hooking to main vacuum, there is no check valve. It appears
that this was not hooked up after looking at the thread on this car, so leak check is always good idea. FB
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Bruce - thanks for the help. I looked at that diagram numerous times yesterday and never noticed the vacuum line dropping from the front of the pan. I also didn't notice the breather tube that is shaped like the repop one. I wonder if the one that is on the Black Car was a much earlier replacement piece or what? Regarding the vacuum leak, I will likely not set it up on an operating basis, but I would like it to be plumbed properly and in operating condition. I'll leave one end of the line a little long and plug it internally. I also notice that the diagram references black with yellow vacuum line. I guess that means the white stripe line all the restoration vendors sell is incorrect?
Quote:
Originally Posted by njsteve
Oh, and I almost forgot: when you repaint the air cleaner you may want to use some type of 3M clear protective film on the mating surface ring where the air scoop rubber boots mate up with the air cleaner. After only a couple minutes of running, those boots will damage the paint on the flanges. I actually used POR15 on those surfaces and it held up pretty well but regular paint just scuffs up too quickly.
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Steve - great suggestion on the snorkles. I might try the new 3M spray on paint defender in those locations.
Any thoughts on the correct finish on the breather tube? Bare metal or black oxide?