Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce
Watched it, good video work! Couple thoughts.
1. Very interesting changing the angle of the pushrod, as you most likely changed the angle of the master? Manual disc cars dont have the master facing the sky though usually,Why did you need a different angle>?
2. The factor "stud" is a grade 8 welded pin. Since your bolt is probably smaller, and threaded, it "may" have less shear strength. I would consider a grade 8 bolt for this mission since it appears you dont have a safety net ( the factory front to rear set up where if rear fails front still works). I would lube it some too, use a metal locking nut. IMHO.
3. Since the position of the rod is in a different spot, the pedal height and brake switch will probably need adjusting, and Im guessing down. It appears this will be a shot travel distance set up?
Lots of cool engineering in this car!! I really hope you like driving it and its not too stiff and handles well..
Looks good, and thanks for posting all the great pics and info  |
Thank you Formulabruce. To answer your point 1, the CNC Dual master is angled different since it has a different mounting bracket. I moved the pushrod up a hole in order to get more leverage since more force will be required by my leg with the manual brake setup.
Point 2, I am running a dual master so if the front fails the rear still works, and vice versa. The 2 stud that go through the firewall to mount the master cylinder were provided by the manufacturer. They are allan head bolts with nuts on the inside of the firewall. I hope they hold
I was thinking about that today so I am going to make sure I install an emergency brake system on the car..... just in case. I plan on doing thorough inspections during the first few months of driving to make sure everything is holding up.
Point 3, you are absolutely correct, I have to push the brake light switch back a little and adjust the pushrod length to get it to fit. Good eye.