I will check all the wires with the timing light and get back to you. Hope it checks out well. I don't think the wires should be an issue as they are brand new. Spark plugs, wires, ignition, and coil are all brand new. Obviously parts can be crappy right out of the box, but all these have been replaced prior to the drivability issue from when I first did the 1.5 hour hideous drive with it.
As far as the 850 RPM, is this significantly too high for idle, or just right for a motor with kinks to be worked out? All I am doing is going by the write-up posted earlier that 625RPM is ideal, and 650+ is getting a touch high. By no means do I have a problem with it idling at 850, but just don't want to go around sounding like a helicopter is ready to take off.
Also, you had asked about the 32 total degrees and how I did it. I did the same process for the idle timing as well as the total timing. With both of them I set the dial to the appropriate number (14 while at idle and 32 while at all out), and when the dial was on those numbers, they showed at 0 on the timing mark.
I will take the car for a quick jaunt and see how it goes. Like I said it won't take long to see if there are vast improvements in the drive-ability of this thing or not. I will get these little things out of the way, try to get the carb adjusted as good as I can, and then take it out..now that the roads are clear.
In all honesty I know that there will be big improvements in the car from driving it in September to now. Having to rev the snot out of it and throw it into drive to get it from stalling, dieing at the lights,....In the little amount I have driving it since fiddling with it, I know for a fact those issues are gone. I doubt the car is as good as it can get, and will take some more testing/tuning, but I can tell you it has been night and day even with the changes that have been done so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_blake
Hi
Just caught up on read:
Another quick test is to take the timing light wire connector piece[part that attaches to plug wire], remove it from #1 cylinder wire and try it on another wire(yes not to time engine) but to see if (when you press the timing gun button) that THE WIRE INDEED is getting a spark. (flashes)
So no need to point it at timing marks but as you go through doing that you may see a pulse of light change indicating something not firing right on a cylinder. Very quick way to see if you're firing on all 8. you can also test resistance of each wire to using a multimeter.
I would agree with other posters - disconnect vacuum advance !!! It offers very little gas mileage savings and is a fine tune item AFTER THE ENGINE RUNS GOOD.- plug the ports that were used by vac advance until we sort out what the heck is up with engine.
Lastly imo I would try and work around the 850 rpm mark until py helps sort it out.
- so hook up rpm gauge - raise idle to 850
- disconnect vac advance
- hook up vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port(not sure on what port that is on edelbrock) they are the base of lower part of the carb.
- Write down the value and let us know.
- Get timing light out and test each plug wire, press the timing gun button and check and see that it pulses on each wire.
- Put it back on #1 cylinder plug wire, check initial timing. you said 14 degrees ?
- you mentioned you have 32 total, did you put the dial to 32 on your dial gun and rev engine to 3000-3500 and see if it lines up with "ZERO" on the timing mark?
I know this isn't 100% accurate on my statements being absolute. meaning the distributor could add more past 3500 but who the heck wants to rev their engine in the driveway way the hell up in that rpm?
If it were me, I would put it at 36 degree total timing, meaning dial on 36, rev it up to 3000 and move distributor until white line is perfect on "0" on timing mark.
From there check initial which should be 18.
Turn down RPM to 850ish.
Then double check petronix install.
I think that's a good approach?
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