Quote:
Originally Posted by parsival
Thank you,
But how do I avoid the gas to run back in the gas tank if the check valve in the fuel pump does not work properly anymore.
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If the fuel pump isn't working correctly, then instead of getting a full pump each engine rotation, the flow would be reduced enough to really add to the time it takes the fuel to get up to the carb. Not to mention that your fuel pump might not be keeping up with full throttle blasts. An additional check valve wouldn't do anything to help an ailing pump.
I think that my manual pump equipped car won't go a week before it has to spend extra time pulling fuel up from the tank - and that's with a new fuel pump and good lines. Today's gas just evaporates quickly. Sometimes my car doesn't get started for several weeks and I got tired of abusing the starter. I added a small pusher pump (pulsar pump) at the tank so I could fill the carb before hitting the starter. It works great and I turn the pump off before hitting the road. I can always leave it on if I need a little additional boost. These small pulsar pumps work just like a mechanical fuel pump with a diaphragm and check valves. Here's an example of the pulsar pump:
Mr. Gasket pump. This setup works fine for moderate horsepower requirements. My cruiser has 298 horsepower at the rear wheels, and the system has no problem keeping up with it. If that figure was 400 at the rear wheels, then a different system would be needed. Also the pulsar pump is really the only pump you can pull fuel through when it is off. the rotary and gerotor designed electric pumps won't pass fuel.