Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455
Competing and being competitive are two different things, thought that needed to be pointed out. One costs way more than the other, that I don't think needs to be pointed out.
To have fun, use what you have, and take reasonable steps to make it live.
Good machine work, attention to detail on assembly, oiling (good pan), and cooling are key.
To be competitive, you would/should build an application-specific engine. Would think something like a 400 (3"), .060 over, long rod, light rotating component engine would be a good choice. And of course, along with all the proper support systems, dry sump would be best.
Oil cooler, PS cooler, differential cooler, good brakes and shocks go a long way in taking the extra steps.
If you look at the failures that occur in endurance racing, most of the time it's not core engine stuff that fails, it's support systems or other drivetrain items. Electrical is a biggie, believe it or not. Many run their' race engines past their' service life, and that's when you see actual engine failures.
I've beat my stuff before for more than 20 mins at a time, sometimes as long as an hour plus. I don't think it's as difficult as some may make out, common sense is a key ingredient.
ho428 - What are some of the common failures you've seen in circuit racing?
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The only recurring engine issue I've had is with stock Melling oil pumps and factory windage trays. The Canton tray took care of that, switching to a race pump next time it's apart.
I race my engines a couple of seasons between tear downs. Studded mains, forged rods and pistons. The only "Pontiac" parts are the crank and block. Aftermarket everything else.
Brakes, brakes, brakes. Never enough and never enough.
I re-wired all my electrical with only what's needed in a race car, no issues. No factory harnesses anywhere except the brake lights.
Transmission, a factory Muncie will die multiple times before you throw in the towel and get a racing trans. Factory aluminum bell flexes too much. Replace it before it breaks something else.
Power steering, smallest crank pulley and largest pump pulley you can get when running an OEM pump, been running it with a small cooler for 7+ years without any issues.
Run deep groove pulleys on everything.
Suspension, if running stock arms and leafs go to billet shafts and delrin bushings. Poly will be fine for track days, but not all out racing.
Solid body mounts.
A good radiator and aluminum water pump, no thermostat but a restrictor. Close off all air gaps.
Be prepared for weird things to happen to the car that would never happen on the street. I had a piece of tire rubber get lodged in the throttle linkage yesterday. Had to go back to the pits to figure out why the engine wouldn't get below 3000 rpms.
Vibrations rarely go away unless it's rubber buildup from getting offline, if it feels different come in and check it.
Do a bumper to bumper nut and bolt check before every event. If it bolts on it can break and/or come loose.
Replace motor and tranny mounts every couple of seasons regardless of how they look. They take a beating on the road course.