For MOST engine prelube,
it really does not matter what you use, as long as you use SOMETHING.
I also have the big tube of Lubriplate #105 motor assembly grease, it's great if you fire the engine fairly soon after application. The stuff dries-out over time (months.) I use it for distributor/cam gears, pushrod tips, rocker pivots, valve tips, crank bearings, front-and rear main seals (lip-type) etc. When the 105 is used-up, I've already bought a tube of Sta-Lube Engine Assembly lube; but I haven't actually tried it yet.
http://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-Ass...lubriplate+105
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3331-Ext...ta-Lube+engine
I will fill (hydraulic) lifters with ATF on the bench to verify that they pass oil through the metering plate to the pushrod, and to verify lifter leakdown. This also requires EXTRA care when setting lifter preload. (That's why the folks who sell lifters suggest NOT priming them beforehand.) I will set the lifter preload BEFORE installing the intake manifold so I can SEE the preload of each lifter.
Similarly, I wipe piston bores (cylinders), pistons and rings, and lifter bores with ATF as the final lube before installation. It doesn't take much!
The timing chain gets engine oil dumped onto it before I drop the intake manifold on.
The only critical components would be the flat-tappet cam and lifters. Cam journals and gear get the 105 grease, cam lobes and lifter bottoms (but NOT THE LIFTER SIDES) get the thick, Moly-based paste as is often sold in 1-ounce tubes at ~$7 each. I buy it from Bel-Ray in a bigass brush-lid tub for about $22; except I bought mine years ago, it's done more engines than I can remember, and there's still a bit more in the tub.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006B24KBG/...=IBKOD4J9SOF8M
Remember that all the thick, moly-based paste you slather onto the cam lobes and lifter feet will begin plugging the oil filter as soon as the engine starts. If it weren't for the moly-paste, break-in oil filters would go MUCH longer than 20--30 minutes.
When breaking-in an engine, I also install a Frantz bypass oil filter using a roll of asswipe as the filter media. These things are tremendous at pulling-out fine wear particles, the expensive break-in oil will last hundreds if not thousands of miles--although changing the main oil filter at 20--30 minutes is required if you're using the moly-based grease. I change the roll of asswipe when that filter is no longer hot when the engine is up-to-temp. The bypass filter may not stay with the engine permanently; although I chose to leave one in place on the 454 in my boat:
This installation was intended to be permanent from the beginning. It taps into a small engine-oil gallery such as the oil-pressure gauge might use; and this one dumps directly into the oil pan. I had to drill the pan, and then install a bulkhead fitting to screw the hose adapter to. A temporary installation might return the filtered oil using an extra oil-fill cap in the valve cover, drilled and fitted with a hose adapter. Simple, fairly inexpensive, and transferable to another engine if it uses the same kind of oil fill cap. The supply side can use any oil port if there is room in the chassis for suitable adapters.