OK, here's what's going on with front suspension portion of the project. A long time ago I got these NOS upper control arms. Ball joints are riveted in. They come painted all black and at the time I was not aware of the dipping they did at the factory that left the tip unpainted. So I could try to replicate that some. It mocks up fairly well so far.
OR I could go a slightly different route here.
This is, at least, one of those "choices". So I could probably go either way.
I've got the original upper control arms. They both have the old ball joints removed and are glass beaded. Still need a bit of clean up but not too bad.
One is dated coded 0 G 30 (July 30, 1970). A Thursday.
Other is dated coded 0 H 18 (August 18th, 1970). A Tuesday.
I do have a pair of the 3986009 upper ball joints.
And also a pair of the 6259679 upper control arm shaft kits.
I wouldn't be able to go without riveting in the new ball joints. Bolts just wouldn't seem right. I just found out recently that Scott Tiemann can rivet ball joints in.
Should I use the original control arms or the NOS ones? I guess some of that depends on whether or not Scott would be willing to help me out.
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Now here's a similar situation I need to get taken care of with the lower control arms.
I don't have any NOS lowers to fall back on, so there's that, too.
I do have the original lowers all apart and blasted.
They both have a large "A" on them but I don't know what that would indicate.
One is dated 0 G 29 (July 29th, 1970). A Wednesday.
One is dated 0 H 4 (August 4th, 1970). A Tuesday.
The front and rear bushings are NOS with Harris Silentblock on them but I don't have boxes. They do seem like they will press in nice and tight. And the bolts that pass through them fit perfect. No real concerns there other than a hint of flash rust on one of them that I need to clean off.
I also have a pair of 9756251 lower ball joints
But, they are too loose by exactly ten thousands of an inch. I know the lower ball joints were replaced at some time and the honed out the opening for aftermarket ball joints. In fact I still have those ball joints and they fit nice and tight.
Is there anything that could positively be done to the opening on the lower control arm that the ball joint passes through to close it down ten thousands? There is plenty of load bearing material to support the ball joint and they wouldn't pull through, no way. They would just be slightly loose in the hole and I can't do that.
I'd appreciate any advice or thoughts on those two items.
Thanks
Chad