Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDYA
What size water pump pulley do you have? A large pulley will make the water pump spin too slow at idle (at a stop light) and not circulate the coolant fast enough. Once you start to move the pump spins faster, the coolant starts to circulate and you see the temperature begin to drop.
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That was my first thought, since I was wondering if this was a factory AC car or AC that's been added. Aftermarket air seems to be all the rage these days without thought to pulley ratios.
If it's the latter, then it would have come with a larger diameter water pump pulley from the factory slowing it down. The AC cars had a much smaller pulley to move the coolant faster.
I use the smaller pulley trick on "non" AC cars for some extra coolant movement, stock water pumps, 160 stats with 3/16" by-pass hole drilled, copper core 4 core radiators, and everything else stock. With proper timing settings, vacuum advance working, carburator calibrated properly, I never see temps over 175, and the cars with AC I never see temps over 185-190ish with the AC blasting in the Arizona heat. Even a 600+ HP pump gas car I have here with AC and 4.10 gears won't get hot, using a stock clutch fan.
71T/A, you could try a pusher fan as a bandaid that might work for you, but looking at pulley ratios would be my first suggestion, then possibly the clutch fan. In extreme cases if all else fails I'd suggest the OEM style 7 blade 18" direct drive flex fan. They can be found at swap meets for ~$20 and pull a ton of air, they are however HP robbers
But they cool nicely. I have several here, and could post a picture for reference if need be.