Quote:
Originally Posted by firechickenman
That #2 dowel pin may have fallen out at any time since the pan was off the last time. Looks like the cap may have been moving around some. How tight does the dowel fit in the block?
Main studs should not be tight in the block. If you could remove the studs by hand after the nuts were loosened, that's normal.
Looks like you might have gotten very lucky. How did the oil pump drive come out of place? Is the shaft locating pin missing from the oil pump?
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[ Post #1 FCMan: "car cut out on the track at 60ft mark. what I thought was something in the oil pump locking up and breaking the roll pin in the dizzy drive, turned out to be the oil pump shaft broken and a broken crank.
not sure what broke first, the crank or the oil pump shaft which then jammed the crank."]
The Number#2 main sees the stress in the engine first. Have seen several engines (cast main caps) where the #2 main cap was split up the main fastener hole. Your pics show no evidence of that happening in this case.
The crank does not normally break at the #5 main location.
Yours did which makes me think that the oil pump shaft got jammed up in the #5 crank counterweight area. If the block checks out you can put steel caps on the block is the block shows no other damage. Inspect the block for the oil pump shaft guide (cast in the block) still being there and in good shape.
Brian H broke the oil pump shaft guide on his IA-2 Block when he had a engine failure some years ago.
Tom Vaught