.....the test stand today.
First order of business was to liberate the engine from the engine stand. For those of you who aren't comfortable using a lifting plate, here's close to 700 pounds being supported by the four 5/16" carb studs on the 2-barrel intake.
Here's the main reason that these older blocks don't get used for many engine builds, the odd-ball '55-'60 bellhousing bolt pattern. This, along with the fact that the block doesn't mount the starter.
I attached my 1960 stick bellhousing so I can build the rear test stand mounts off of it. The '58-'60 stick bellhousings will accommodate the stronger and more modern stick transmissions.
To start with I used some 1.25" wide by .250" thick metal strap iron to locate the bellhousing approximately where I want it on the test stand.
There's plenty of clearance between the floor of the stand and the oil pan as well as the lowest hanging item, the road draft tube.
With the rear of the engine somewhat secure I can move on to the side engine mounting.
Here's why you never throw anything away made of steel that might be useful later on, a pair of camper hold downs that I almost sat at the curb for the scrappers.
After about 2 minutes with the Sawzall and I now have these, 2.50" wide by .375" thick material already bent very close to the shape I need.
They'll work out just perfect here.
The supports tuck in nicely to clear any type of exhaust that I might need to use.
After drilling a hole for a 1/2" bolt, they're now attached to the mounts and supporting the front of the engine.
I'll weld the bottoms of the support legs to the pieces of channel that were cut off from the camper hold downs, then bolt the channel to the floor of the test stand.
Now to do something about mounting the bellhousing properly, this certainly won't do as it now sits.
After some cutting and drilling using the same two pieces of material we're good now
All self-supporting and stable, even without doing any welding on the front supports. That's it for today.
