Well Today, I am NOT going to type for an hour to have the Website lock me out and destroy my hour's worth of effort. Going to do shorter posts but more of them. Will try to break the Boosted Carb info into the same carb circuit "chapters" that I did for the Naturally Aspirated Holley Carbs.
So initially we are going to talk about a "Old School" 1960s "Draw-Thru Turbo Carb and its modifications.
1) Rebuild the carb with new gaskets, .120" needles and seats, and 6.5" Power Valve on the front metering block and a 8.5" Power Valve on the rear metering block. (JUST LIKE STOCK).
Remove the Carb Throttle Base Plate and remove the "Anti-Backfire" spring and ball. Thread the hole (from the top side of the base plate just enough to install a short set screw in the former passage. When the carb main body is installed on the throttle base plate the set screw is trapped and can't fall into the engine. So now you have made your first "Draw Thru Carb" Mod.
Because you plugged the carb "Anti-Backfire" spring and ball drilled passage you also removed the Power Valve Signal from the intake manifold to the Power Valve Cavity in the main body. So now the Power Valve has no signal to tell it to stay closed and the spring on the Power Valve will keep it open all the time. This will not affect idle at all but will cause the rest of the circuits: Transition, Main Circuit to run rich.
So A bit later I will have some pictures and info on how to correct that deal.
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught
Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward.
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