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Old 04-14-2018, 10:43 AM
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Lee Lee is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Crosby, TX (East of Houston)/Texas/USA
Posts: 2,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fastgtos View Post
I expand about two inches of the exhaust pipe and slide it over the header. Then I weld a tab on the expanded part that bolts to a tab welded on the header. No leaks, no worries.
That is how my Tribal Tubes Tri-Y's are made, and also a set of Headmans on an LS swap of mine.

They create a new problem - how to remove the header, it ever needed repair or to have a gasket changed out. There is not enough fore/aft movement in either the headers or the exhaust system. The engine would have to be removed in order to get the header out.

For the Tri-Y's, my exhaust guy installed 3-bolt flanges at the muffler (I think you can see this all in the picture, and the oil leak HAS been fixed and the stains removed!). With that, I can drop the exhaust there, then slide the entire mid-section off of the slide-on collectors. With an H-pipe or X-pipe, this would make it easier for transmission maintenance and such.

My old Falcon wagon's headers were ball/socket type. One side came loose once, but after tightening a bit more they never gave me another problem, and sealed very well. My only concern was if the design caused turbulence, and may cause a loss of flow.
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'73 T/A (sold). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 317rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'.

'67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust